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The surcoat received the honour of sleeves in the latter part of the century, and these hung almost to the hem of the skirt, while the cte hardie took unto itself another shape, the shoulders being broader, the bodice cut low, and edged with fur, with folds of white silk to form a collar, a short waist being simulated by the wearing of the girdle high

The choice between pleated and flat-front trousers depends on personal preference, but both options should avoid overly sporty details

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